04 Beginning in the Ogowe Country

Chapter 4 BEGINNINGS IN THE OGOWE COUNTRY

1885 THE Ogowe is one of the mighty rivers of Africa. It stretches for over seven hundred miles along the equator, and connects with the Congo by its upper branches. It is a grand waterway for two hundred miles from its mouth, but above that are rapids for five hundred miles. Its current is swift, and through an immense delta it pours into the Atlantic, according to the season, from 360,000 to 1,750,000 cubic feet of water per second. The largest island in the river divides it into two channels opposite Kangwe.

Just there, at Kangwe, the mission stationed Mr. Good, and he arrived there with his family February 1. The four months following he pronounced " the happiest since I came to Africa. Nearly half my time was spent in my boat. I visited all the Glalwa towns, some of them several times, and many towns of the Fang and the Akele." The record of the first among his numberless itinerations in this region is interesting as showing the system with which, at just twenty-eight years of age, but two years in Africa, and with no superintending eye upon him, Mr. Good went about his work. His care to be exact, at least to avoid exaggeration, is illustrated in his frequent use of the word "about." His notes of this journey were preserved solely for his own reference, especially as a geographical guide, and are given verbatim.

1885, Feb. 9. Began my first boat journey in the Ogewe. Started about 8: 30 a.m. down the small river.

Passed a Galwa and town called Atangino on our left, one mile below Kangwg. Also a small Bakele town opposite.

Next Akama (Galwa) left side 1/2-1 mile below Atangino.

We entered Degele creek just opposite, which flows to the N. five miles to a small lake of same name. No towns. From the lake, Degele creek turns W. and S. W. ten miles (all distances are guessed) where it approaches very near to the river it had left, so that just opposite the Adjumba towns two creeks break through from the large river into it. By the upper of these, Osondo, we crossed to Adjumba. Still no towns on the Degele which flows on under a new name to Lake Azyingo. Reached Adjumba towns about 12 m.

Spent the afternoon and night here.

Preached in the lower end of the town on the Prodigal Son. Present about 30 people. A little above, on the New Birth to 40 people. At the town farthest up the river on Matthew 5:1-10 to about 20 people.

Again below this to about 30 people on John 3:15-19, and in the evening at Mbumba’s place on Romans 8:1-5 to 50 people. Mbumba with whom I stayed is a middle-aged man who has a very boyish appearance partly for want of a beard, which want he very much regrets. He is very friendly and did his best to make me comfortable.

Feb. 10. Meeting at Adjumba before starting for Lake Azyingo. Spoke on Romans 5:1-10 to about 30 people. Started about 7: 30 a.m. Crossed from Adjumba to a small creek a little below called Orembagogo. Leaving a branch of this, Orembankala, to the left we keep to the right and re-enter the Degele under the new name Orembazyingo. Course nearly due N. Five to seven miles from Adjumba, a large Pangwe town on the right called Atanda, and five miles further a town on our left of Syekani and Bakele, called Ateve. Stopped and talked to the people at both the above places. Three miles further we enter a creek called Eganli coming from the Lake. Two miles along this sluggish stream course N. and we enter the Lake from the W. S. W. We passed, near the entrance on our right, to another town of the Adjumba called Mandezimbanli. Head man Agambwi. Stayed with Mangandi. Learned that there were no towns on the Lake, except one (Adjumba) on the opposite side of the entrance and four Pangwe towns at the other end of the Lake probably 10 to 12 miles distant.

Visited the town opposite called Azyngo, where I talked to 35 people on Romans 3:10-20. Town small and the people timid. Returned to Mandezimbanli and in the evening preached to about 25 on Galatians 5:16-23. The people of both these towns seem wild and act strangely and, especially those of Azyngo, have mixed with the oldest Mpongwe a great many words which I take to be Syekani and Bakele. The Lake, as nearly as I can make out, is made up of two nearly equal ends (separated) connected by a strait. The country beyond is hilly, almost mountainous, but had no time to explore more particularly.

Talked again in the evening to 25 people on Matthew 18:21-35.

Feb. 11. Had a rather poor night. Was tired but failed to sleep on account of the bedbugs of which (if I am to estimate them by the sense of touch) there were thousands in my bed.

Talked in the morning to a few people on Matthew 7:14.

Re-entered the river we had left the day before to come to the Lake. Its name changed to Olowiguma. Course westerly. Beautiful hills on our right outside the Lake. Densely wooded. After 7 or 8 miles, the river divides around a long island (4-5 miles long) and the right hand stream widens into a shallow lake one mile wide and 3 or 4 long called Nkove. Some Pangwe towns at the end farthest from the entrance. In passing through this lake, keep close along the island to the left or the outlet will be missed. Course here becomes S. W. to S. for 5 or 6 miles, when we pass a small but very picturesque lake on our left, opening full breadth into the river and extending back one mile, called Ogondwe. Toward noon we found a small lake on our right 1/2 by 1 mile. Very fine― called Igulwe― 4-6 miles from Ogondwe. Took dinner in this lake and bought meat. No towns, only fishermen. From this the river runs deep, and with strong current, between wooded hills 7-8 miles and then opens on our right another lake called Loge. Seen from the river it seems very fine indeed. We see the lower end. It lies parallel with the river and near to it, 1 mile by 3 miles. Hills around it are very fine. A mile and one half further brings to the Adjumba River and we begin to ascend. First Galwa town I 1/2 miles above the junction on our left, called Longwg. Opposite, a little below, a small creek goes off to the big river coming out between Egenja and Asyuka. Called Ntondi. Said to be 1/2 day’s pull from Longwe to the main river. Preached in the afternoon to 60 people (many children) on Luke 5:31-32. Evening, to a house full on Luke 12:39-40. Probably over 60 present. People left off dancing mbwiri for a young man who was lost, in order to attend the meeting. Longwe a large town, perhaps 200 people or more and full of children.

Feb. 12. Passed a very comfortable night at Longwe. In the morning talked on Christ and the woman at the well to 40 people. Start up the river due E. We pass to the right of a large island beginning a little above Longwe and continuing 2-3 miles. Soon above, another island 1-2 miles long on the upper end of which is the small Galwa town of Nenge. We turned to the right in passing the above island, but the main channel is on the other side. To Nenge took 2-3 hrs. and the distance may be 8 miles.

Preached here to 20 people on Matthew 22:36 sq. Close above, we pass to the right of a small island and, a little above, to the left of a long island extending past the next town. About 5 miles above Nenge we reach Olamba on our left, a small Galwa town like Nenge in size. Talked to 15-20 people on John 6:47-57. People came very reluctantly. Reached this place about noon and left about 2 p.m.

After 4 miles further reach a town of Ivile people on our right, called Ompoymanla. Talked to 20-30, on the Prodigal Son. People friendly and apparently anxious to hear.

Close above this a Galwa town, Ngondo, of fair size, very friendly but situated in an unhealthful place and poorly kept. Spoke on John 3:14-21 to about 50 people. Some of the chief men and women were the worse for drink. They had made some sort of intoxicant from cane juice with the bark of some tree in it. This, the last of the four Galwa towns on this part of the river. Met here Afangananga, head man of the Adjumba towns.

Just above this town a creek a few hundred yds. long enters Lake Adole. A fine body of water 2-3 miles wide and 4-5 long. End toward the river.

6 P.M. Spoke again in the Ivile town to about 25 people on Luke 6:42-49:8 P.M. Talked again in Ngondo on the parable of the Sower, to 20-30 people.

Feb. 13. After a fairly good night talked again to 20 people on Matthew 18:1-9.

One half mile above, on the opposite side, a small new Ivile town called Egolianli. Preached here to 20 people on Matthew 5:1-12. Just around a bend of the river on the same side a Syekani town, Njongo. Spoke here to 15 people on Matthew 6:6-13. People very timid.

Two miles above this, on the opposite side, a town of Syekani, a fairly good sized and well built town, called Adaginlanjambie. Spoke to 15-20 people on Matthew 13:47-50. No towns between this and Adjumba, from which, distance 4-4 hrs. pull, or 12-15 miles. Took dinner in the bush and reached Adjumba 2: 30 p.m. Met here Angom and his wife.

Evening, spoke to 40-45 people on 2 Peter 3:8-11.

Feb. 14. Left Adjumba at 5:30 a.m. 3/4 mile above, a small Adjumba town called Anenga. Too early to stop.

Pull 2 hrs., then the river Omoni goes off to the main river; 3 or 4 mi. further, we come to the two towns called Ompolavoma on our left. The lower one Syekani, small; the one, a little above, Galwa and a very fair town.

Spoke in the lower town to 12 people on the Prodigal Son. In the Galwa town talked to 25 people on the New Birth. A little below Degele creek, the river Ekalegambe goes off to the main river joining Omoni further down.

Close below Degele creek (lower entrance) on same side, a small Pangwe town. Talked here to 40 or 50 people.

Crossed to Akama and talked to 15 people on John 3:16-21.

Stopped at Atangino to call the people to church next day.

Reached home, noon.

Preached in all thirty times, to about 800 people. Traveled 100-110 miles.

Missionary efforts on the Ogowe had thus far been made through the Mpongwe language and chiefly expended upon the Gralwa tribe, while they were far outnumbered by the Fang. "Tens of thousands of Fang," wrote Mr. Good, " and not a single convert among them, on this river. It would be my wish to allow my associate to go on with his previous work, and devote myself to the Fang." But after a few months of energetic initiative came one of those inevitable, characteristic interruptions to every enterprise of white men on the West Coast. His associate was dangerously low with fever and had to be sent to Gaboon, and soon after Mr. Good himself succumbed. The physician ordered them both out to sea. At every calling port a message was sent back to Mrs. Good.

"Up with R___ all night; temperature 103. Mrs. R___ sick too. ’Yours truly’ is getting on very well." From Old Calabar: " R___’s fever down, but takes little food. Place unfavorable to recovery. Going to Bonny. If he gets up, you may expect me by next mail-steamer. If not, there is nothing for it but on to Madeira. I am going to get awfully tired of it. Don’t like the idea of being away from you and work so long, but I am in for it. Don’t worry; am feeling first-rate." Accompanying this letter was a photograph for " the girl I left behind me," taken in the yard of the Scotch mission.

Back at Kangwe: "Now I hope to stay here a long time without change. My health seems completely restored" ― a seeming to be disproved by many a burning fever yet. No time is lost in getting that boat again into motion. Within a month the missionary has seen " nearly all our people " at communion, and taken reports of Bible-readers. " What pleases me most is an inquiry class of seventeen, among them some young men who have borne persecution well." There was a school of thirty to forty started, but French authorities closed it. Men twenty to thirty years old worked one half-day to go to school the other half. They gave up their wages to buy books; nearly all lived ten to fifty miles down-river. " Now we must turn them away. The children say, ’ Must we grow up in darkness?’ Parents ask, Shall we send them to the Roman Catholic school!’ Hitherto I have said, Wait; ’ but that answer is getting rather old. Some church members will send to the Catholics if we do not soon supply this want. What shall we say to them?" The question at Gaboon was the question at Kangwe.

" Faithful, earnest Nguva, the only elder of our little church, has gone to his reward. I shall miss him very much, and his place will be hard to fill. The want of schools bears heavily on Bible work. These men we have can hardly read. People will not long listen to such instruction as they can give." A French priest, an ignorant, intemperate man, frequently amused himself by breaking up meetings which Protestants conducted in the towns. Mr. Good was ready for such cases. He could summon his patience and stand still in answer to abusive language, or, allowing his opponent to address the people as long as he would, " then I took the floor, or rather the middle of the street, and replied, trying to do what he had failed to do ― confine my remarks as much as possible to presentation of the way of salvation, and contrasting our teachings on the subject with theirs."

One day the Fang themselves undertook to settle a discussion of this kind in their town by a characteristic method. Each white man should send for a canoe of tobacco. " Let it be brought and given; then we will know who is best." The priest fell into the plan at once. " I let him commit himself thoroughly; then I told them plainly that the Word of God was what I came to give. If they heard it, well; if not, it was their palaver. I would preach it to them, but would not pay them to listen; it was worth being heard without their attention being bought. And, to my surprise, the people said I was right." But it was a year of strife with the Jesuit mission. It was their aim to bring Protestant missionaries into disrepute with the French government. They snatched and burned Protestant Scriptures in the hands of poor, pagan, black people, as if they were living in Spain; and Mr. Good came back to the old conclusion, " We shall never have any peace till we teach some French."