03.0000 - Contents

Contents.

Introduction.

Personal Sketch--Highland Ancestors—Family Traditions--Grandfather removes to the Lowlands--Parents-- Early Labors and Efforts--Evening School--Love of Reading-- Religious Impressions--Medical Education--Youthful Travels-- Geology--Mental Discipline--Study in Glasgow--London Missionary Society--Native Village--Medical Diploma-- Theological Studies--Departure for Africa--No Claim to Literary Accomplishments.

Chapter 1. The Bakwain Country--Study of the Language--Native Ideas regarding Comets--Mabotsa Station--A Lion Encounter-- Virus of the Teeth of Lions--Names of the Bechuana Tribes-- Sechele--His Ancestors--Obtains the Chieftainship--His Marriage and Government--The Kotla--First public Religious Services--Sechele’s Questions--He Learns to Read--Novel mode for Converting his Tribe--Surprise at their Indifference-- Polygamy--Baptism of Sechele--Opposition of the Natives-- Purchase Land at Chonuane--Relations with the People--Their Intelligence--Prolonged Drought--Consequent Trials--Rain- medicine--God’s Word blamed--Native Reasoning--Rain-maker-- Dispute between Rain Doctor and Medical Doctor--The Hunting Hopo--Salt or animal Food a necessary of Life--Duties of a Missionary.

Chapter 2. The Boers--Their Treatment of the Natives--Seizure of native Children for Slaves--English Traders--Alarm of the Boers--Native Espionage--The Tale of the Cannon--The Boers threaten Sechele--In violation of Treaty, they stop English Traders and expel Missionaries--They attack the Bakwains-- Their Mode of Fighting--The Natives killed and the School- children carried into Slavery--Destruction of English Property--African Housebuilding and Housekeeping--Mode of Spending the Day--Scarcity of Food--Locusts--Edible Frogs-- Scavenger Beetle--Continued Hostility of the Boers--The Journey north--Preparations--Fellow-travelers--The Kalahari Desert--Vegetation--Watermelons--The Inhabitants--The Bushmen- -Their nomad Mode of Life--Appearance--The Bakalahari--Their Love for Agriculture and for domestic Animals--Timid Character--Mode of obtaining Water--Female Water-suckers--The Desert--Water hidden.

Chapter 3.

Departure from Kolobeng, 1st June, 1849-- Companions--Our Route--Abundance of Grass--Serotli, a Fountain in the Desert--Mode of digging Wells--The Eland--Animals of the Desert--The Hyaena--The Chief Sekomi--Dangers--The wandering Guide--Cross Purposes--Slow Progress--Want of Water-- Capture of a Bushwoman--The Salt-pan at Nchokotsa--The Mirage--Reach the River Zouga--The Quakers of Africa-- Discovery of Lake Ngami, 1st August, 1849--Its Extent--Small Depth of Water--Position as the Reservoir of a great River System--The Bamangwato and their Chief--Desire to visit Sebituane, the Chief of the Makololo--Refusal of Lechulatebe to furnish us with Guides--Resolve to return to the Cape--The Banks of the Zouga--Pitfalls--Trees of the District-- Elephants--New Species of Antelope--Fish in the Zouga.

Chapter 4.

Leave Kolobeng again for the Country of Sebituane-- Reach the Zouga--The Tsetse--A Party of Englishmen--Death of Mr. Rider--Obtain Guides--Children fall sick with Fever-- Relinquish the Attempt to reach Sebituane--Mr. Oswell’s Elephant-hunting--Return to Kolobeng--Make a third Start thence--Reach Nchokotsa--Salt-pans--"Links", or Springs-- Bushmen--Our Guide Shobo--The Banajoa--An ugly Chief--The Tsetse--Bite fatal to domestic Animals, but harmless to wild Animals and Man--Operation of the Poison--Losses caused by it-- The Makololo--Our Meeting with Sebituane--Sketch of his Career--His Courage and Conquests--Manoeuvres of the Batoka-- He outwits them--His Wars with the Matebele--Predictions of a native Prophet--Successes of the Makololo--Renewed Attacks of the Matebele--The Island of Loyelo--Defeat of the Matebele-- Sebituane’s Policy--His Kindness to Strangers and to the Poor-- His sudden Illness and Death--Succeeded by his Daughter--Her Friendliness to us--Discovery, in June, 1851, of the Zambesi flowing in the Centre of the Continent--Its Size--The Mambari-- The Slave-trade--Determine to send Family to England--Return to the Cape in April, 1852--Safe Transit through the Caffre Country during Hostilities--Need of a "Special Correspondent" --Kindness of the London Missionary Society--Assistance afforded by the Astronomer Royal at the Cape.

Chapter 5.

Start in June, 1852, on the last and longest Journey from Cape Town--Companions--Wagon-traveling--Physical Divisions of Africa--The Eastern, Central, and Western Zones-- The Kalahari Desert--Its Vegetation--Increasing Value of the Interior for Colonization--Our Route--Dutch Boers--Their Habits--Sterile Appearance of the District--Failure of Grass-- Succeeded by other Plants--Vines--Animals--The Boers as Farmers--Migration of Springbucks--Wariness of Animals--The Orange River--Territory of the Griquas and Bechuanas--The Griquas--The Chief Waterboer--His wise and energetic Government--His Fidelity--Ill-considered Measures of the Colonial Government in regard to Supplies of Gunpowder-- Success of the Missionaries among the Griquas and Bechuanas-- Manifest Improvement of the native Character--Dress of the Natives--A full-dress Costume--A Native’s Description of the Natives--Articles of Commerce in the Country of the Bechuanas-- Their Unwillingness to learn, and Readiness to criticise.

Chapter 6.

Kuruman--Its fine Fountain--Vegetation of the District--Remains of ancient Forests--Vegetable Poison--The Bible translated by Mr. Moffat--Capabilities of the Language-- Christianity among the Natives--The Missionaries should extend their Labors more beyond the Cape Colony--Model Christians-- Disgraceful Attack of the Boers on the Bakwains--Letter from Sechele--Details of the Attack--Numbers of School-children carried away into Slavery--Destruction of House and Property at Kolobeng--The Boers vow Vengeance against me--Consequent Difficulty of getting Servants to accompany me on my Journey-- Start in November, 1852--Meet Sechele on his way to England to obtain Redress from the Queen--He is unable to proceed beyond the Cape--Meet Mr. Macabe on his Return from Lake Ngami--The hot Wind of the Desert--Electric State of the Atmosphere-- Flock of Swifts--Reach Litubaruba--The Cave Lepelole-- Superstitions regarding it--Impoverished State of the Bakwains--Retaliation on the Boers--Slavery--Attachment of the Bechuanas to Children--Hydrophobia unknown--Diseases of the Bakwains few in number--Yearly Epidemics--Hasty Burials-- Ophthalmia--Native Doctors--Knowledge of Surgery at a very low Ebb--Little Attendance given to Women at their Confinements-- The "Child Medicine"--Salubrity of the Climate well adapted for Invalids suffering from pulmonary Complaints.

Chapter 7.

Departure from the Country of the Bakwains--Large black Ant--Land Tortoises--Diseases of wild Animals--Habits of old Lions--Cowardice of the Lion--Its Dread of a Snare--Major Vardon’s Note--The Roar of the Lion resembles the Cry of the Ostrich--Seldom attacks full-grown Animals--Buffaloes and Lions--Mice--Serpents--Treading on one--Venomous and harmless Varieties--Fascination--Sekomi’s Ideas of Honesty--Ceremony of the Sechu for Boys--The Boyale for young Women--Bamangwato Hills--The Unicorn’s Pass--The Country beyond--Grain--Scarcity of Water--Honorable Conduct of English Gentlemen--Gordon Cumming’s hunting Adventures--A Word of Advice for young Sportsmen--Bushwomen drawing Water--Ostrich--Silly Habit-- Paces--Eggs--Food.

Chapter 8.

Effects of Missionary Efforts--Belief in the Deity-- Ideas of the Bakwains on Religion--Departure from their Country--Salt-pans--Sour Curd--Nchokotsa--Bitter Waters-- Thirst suffered by the wild Animals--Wanton Cruelty in Hunting--Ntwetwe--Mowana-trees--Their extraordinary Vitality-- The Mopane-tree--The Morala--The Bushmen--Their Superstitions-- Elephant-hunting--Superiority of civilized over barbarous Sportsmen--The Chief Kaisa--His Fear of Responsibility--Beauty of the Country at Unku--The Mohonono Bush--Severe Labor in cutting our Way--Party seized with Fever--Escape of our Cattle--Bakwain Mode of recapturing them--Vagaries of sick Servants--Discovery of grape-bearing Vines--An Ant-eater-- Difficulty of passing through the Forest--Sickness of my Companion--The Bushmen--Their Mode of destroying Lions-- Poisons--The solitary Hill--A picturesque Valley--Beauty of the Country--Arrive at the Sanshureh River--The flooded Prairies--A pontooning Expedition--A night Bivouac--The Chobe-- Arrive at the Village of Moremi--Surprise of the Makololo at our sudden Appearance--Cross the Chobe on our way to Linyanti.

Chapter 9.

Reception at Linyanti--The court Herald--Sekeletu obtains the Chieftainship from his Sister--Mpepe’s Plot-- Slave-trading Mambari--Their sudden Flight--Sekeletu narrowly escapes Assassination--Execution of Mpepe--The Courts of Law-- Mode of trying Offenses--Sekeletu’s Reason for not learning to read the Bible--The Disposition made of the Wives of a deceased Chief--Makololo Women--They work but little--Employ Serfs--Their Drink, Dress, and Ornaments--Public Religious Services in the Kotla--Unfavorable Associations of the place-- Native Doctors--Proposals to teach the Makololo to read-- Sekeletu’s Present--Reason for accepting it--Trading in Ivory-- Accidental Fire--Presents for Sekeletu--Two Breeds of native Cattle--Ornamenting the Cattle--The Women and the Looking- glass--Mode of preparing the Skins of Oxen for Mantles and for Shields--Throwing the Spear.

Chapter 10. The Fever--Its Symptoms--Remedies of the native Doctors--Hospitality of Sekeletu and his People--One of their Reasons for Polygamy--They cultivate largely--The Makalaka or subject Tribes--Sebituane’s Policy respecting them--Their Affection for him--Products of the Soil--Instrument of Culture--The Tribute--Distributed by the Chief--A warlike Demonstration--Lechulatebe’s Provocations--The Makololo determine to punish him--The Bechuanas--Meaning of the Term-- Three Divisions of the great Family of South Africans.

Chapter 11.

Departure from Linyanti for Sesheke--Level Country--Ant-hills--Wild Date-trees--Appearance of our Attendants on the March--The Chief’s Guard--They attempt to ride on Ox-back--Vast Herds of the new Antelopes, Leches, and Nakongs--The native way of hunting them--Reception at the Villages--Presents of Beer and Milk--Eating with the Hand--The Chief provides the Oxen for Slaughter--Social Mode of Eating-- The Sugar-cane--Sekeletu’s novel Test of Character-- Cleanliness of Makololo Huts--Their Construction and Appearance--The Beds--Cross the Leeambye--Aspect of this part of the Country--The small Antelope Tianyane unknown in the South--Hunting on foot--An Eland.

Chapter 12.

Procure Canoes and ascend the Leeambye--Beautiful Islands--Winter Landscape--Industry and Skill of the Banyeti-- Rapids--Falls of Gonye--Tradition--Annual Inundations-- Fertility of the great Barotse Valley--Execution of two Conspirators--The Slave-dealer’s Stockade--Naliele, the Capital, built on an artificial Mound--Santuru, a great Hunter--The Barotse Method of commemorating any remarkable Event--Better Treatment of Women--More religious Feeling-- Belief in a future State, and in the Existence of spiritual Beings--Gardens--Fish, Fruit, and Game--Proceed to the Limits of the Barotse Country--Sekeletu provides Rowers and a Herald-- The River and Vicinity--Hippopotamus-hunters--No healthy Location--Determine to go to Loanda--Buffaloes, Elands, and Lions above Libonta--Interview with the Mambari--Two Arabs from Zanzibar--Their Opinion of the Portuguese and the English --Reach the Town of Ma-Sekeletu--Joy of the People at the first Visit of their Chief--Return to Sesheke--Heathenism.

Chapter 13.

Preliminary Arrangements for the Journey--A Picho-- Twenty-seven Men appointed to accompany me to the West-- Eagerness of the Makololo for direct Trade with the Coast-- Effects of Fever--A Makololo Question--The lost Journal-- Reflections--The Outfit for the Journey--11th November, 1853, leave Linyanti, and embark on the Chobe--Dangerous Hippopotami--Banks of Chobe--Trees--The Course of the River-- The Island Mparia at the Confluence of the Chobe and the Leeambye--Anecdote--Ascend the Leeambye--A Makalaka Mother defies the Authority of the Makololo Head Man at Sesheke-- Punishment of Thieves--Observance of the new Moon--Public Addresses at Sesheke--Attention of the People--Results-- Proceed up the River--The Fruit which yields ’Nux vomica’-- Other Fruits--The Rapids--Birds--Fish--Hippopotami and their Young.

Chapter 14.

Increasing Beauty of the Country--Mode of spending the Day--The People and the Falls of Gonye--A Makololo Foray-- A second prevented, and Captives delivered up--Politeness and Liberality of the People--The Rains--Present of Oxen--The fugitive Barotse--Sekobinyane’s Misgovernment--Bee-eaters and other Birds--Fresh-water Sponges--Current--Death from a Lion’s Bite at Libonta--Continued Kindness--Arrangements for spending the Night during the Journey--Cooking and Washing--Abundance of animal Life--Different Species of Birds--Water-fowl-- Egyptian Geese--Alligators--Narrow Escape of one of my Men-- Superstitious Feelings respecting the Alligator--Large Game-- The most vulnerable Spot--Gun Medicine--A Sunday--Birds of Song--Depravity; its Treatment--Wild Fruits--Green Pigeons-- Shoals of Fish--Hippopotami.

Chapter 15.

Message to Masiko, the Barotse Chief, regarding the Captives--Navigation of the Leeambye--Capabilities of this District--The Leeba--Flowers and Bees--Buffalo-hunt--Field for a Botanist--Young Alligators; their savage Nature--Suspicion of the Balonda--Sekelenke’s Present--A Man and his two Wives-- Hunters--Message from Manenko, a female Chief--Mambari Traders--A Dream--Sheakondo and his People--Teeth-filing-- Desire for Butter--Interview with Nyamoana, another female Chief--Court Etiquette--Hair versus Wool--Increase of Superstition--Arrival of Manenko; her Appearance and Husband-- Mode of Salutation--Anklets--Embassy, with a Present from Masiko--Roast Beef--Manioc--Magic Lantern--Manenko an accomplished Scold: compels us to wait--Unsuccessful Zebra- hunt.

Chapter 16.

Nyamoana’s Present--Charms--Manenko’s pedestrian Powers--An Idol--Balonda Arms--Rain--Hunger--Palisades--Dense Forests--Artificial Beehives--Mushrooms--Villagers lend the Roofs of their Houses--Divination and Idols--Manenko’s Whims-- A night Alarm--Shinte’s Messengers and Present--The proper Way to approach a Village--A Merman--Enter Shinte’s Town: its Appearance--Meet two half-caste Slave-traders--The Makololo scorn them--The Balonda real Negroes--Grand Reception from Shinte--His Kotla--Ceremony of Introduction--The Orators-- Women--Musicians and Musical Instruments--A disagreeable Request--Private Interviews with Shinte--Give him an Ox-- Fertility of Soil--Manenko’s new Hut--Conversation with Shinte--Kolimbota’s Proposal--Balonda’s Punctiliousness-- Selling Children--Kidnapping--Shinte’s Offer of a Slave--Magic Lantern--Alarm of Women--Delay--Sambanza returns intoxicated-- The last and greatest Proof of Shinte’s Friendship.

Chapter 17.

Leave Shinte--Manioc Gardens--Mode of preparing the poisonous kind--Its general Use--Presents of Food-- Punctiliousness of the Balonda--Their Idols and Superstition-- Dress of the Balonda--Villages beyond Lonaje--Cazembe--Our Guides and the Makololo--Night Rains--Inquiries for English cotton Goods--Intemese’s Fiction--Visit from an old Man-- Theft--Industry of our Guide--Loss of Pontoon--Plains covered with Water--Affection of the Balonda for their Mothers--A Night on an Island--The Grass on the Plains--Source of the Rivers--Loan of the Roofs of Huts--A Halt--Fertility of the Country through which the Lokalueje flows--Omnivorous Fish-- Natives’ Mode of catching them--The Village of a Half-brother of Katema, his Speech and Present--Our Guide’s Perversity-- Mozenkwa’s pleasant Home and Family--Clear Water of the flooded Rivers--A Messenger from Katema--Quendende’s Village: his Kindness--Crop of Wool--Meet People from the Town of Matiamvo--Fireside Talk--Matiamvo’s Character and Conduct-- Presentation at Katema’s Court: his Present, good Sense, and Appearance--Interview on the following Day--Cattle--A Feast and a Makololo Dance--Arrest of a Fugitive--Dignified old Courtier--Katema’s lax Government--Cold Wind from the North-- Canaries and other singing Birds--Spiders, their Nests and Webs--Lake Dilolo--Tradition--Sagacity of Ants.

Chapter 18. The Watershed between the northern and southern Rivers--A deep Valley--Rustic Bridge--Fountains on the Slopes of the Valleys--Village of Kabinje--Good Effects of the Belief in the Power of Charms--Demand for Gunpowder and English Calico--The Kasai--Vexatious Trick--Want of Food--No Game-- Katende’s unreasonable Demand--A grave Offense--Toll-bridge Keeper--Greedy Guides--Flooded Valleys--Swim the Nyuana Loke-- Prompt Kindness of my Men--Makololo Remarks on the rich uncultivated Valleys--Difference in the Color of Africans-- Reach a Village of the Chiboque--The Head Man’s impudent Message--Surrounds our Encampment with his Warriors--The Pretense--Their Demand--Prospect of a Fight--Way in which it was averted--Change our Path--Summer--Fever--Beehives and the Honey-guide--Instinct of Trees--Climbers--The Ox Sinbad-- Absence of Thorns in the Forests--Plant peculiar to a forsaken Garden--Bad Guides--Insubordination suppressed--Beset by Enemies--A Robber Party--More Troubles--Detained by Ionga Panza--His Village--Annoyed by Bangala Traders--My Men discouraged--Their Determination and Precaution.

Chapter 19.

Guides prepaid--Bark Canoes--Deserted by Guides-- Mistakes respecting the Coanza--Feelings of freed Slaves-- Gardens and Villages--Native Traders--A Grave--Valley of the Quango--Bamboo--White Larvae used as Food--Bashinje Insolence-- A posing Question--The Chief Sansawe--His Hostility--Pass him safely--The River Quango--Chief’s mode of dressing his Hair-- Opposition--Opportune Aid by Cypriano--His generous Hospitality--Ability of Half-castes to read and write--Books and Images--Marauding Party burned in the Grass--Arrive at Cassange--A good Supper--Kindness of Captain Neves-- Portuguese Curiosity and Questions--Anniversary of the Resurrection--No Prejudice against Color--Country around Cassange--Sell Sekeletu’s Ivory--Makololo’s Surprise at the high Price obtained--Proposal to return Home, and Reasons-- Soldier-guide--Hill Kasala--Tala Mungongo, Village of-- Civility of Basongo--True Negroes--A Field of Wheat--Carriers-- Sleeping-places--Fever--Enter District of Ambaca--Good Fruits of Jesuit Teaching--The ’Tampan’; its Bite--Universal Hospitality of the Portuguese--A Tale of the Mambari-- Exhilarating Effects of Highland Scenery--District of Golungo Alto--Want of good Roads--Fertility--Forests of gigantic Timber--Native Carpenters--Coffee Estate--Sterility of Country near the Coast--Mosquitoes--Fears of the Makololo--Welcome by Mr. Gabriel to Loanda.

Chapter 20.

Continued Sickness--Kindness of the Bishop of Angola and her Majesty’s Officers--Mr. Gabriel’s unwearied Hospitality--Serious Deportment of the Makololo--They visit Ships of War--Politeness of the Officers and Men--The Makololo attend Mass in the Cathedral--Their Remarks--Find Employment in collecting Firewood and unloading Coal--Their superior Judgment respecting Goods--Beneficial Influence of the Bishop of Angola--The City of St. Paul de Loanda--The Harbor--Custom- house--No English Merchants--Sincerity of the Portuguese Government in suppressing the Slave-trade--Convict Soldiers-- Presents from Bishop and Merchants for Sekeletu--Outfit--Leave Loanda 20th September, 1854--Accompanied by Mr. Gabriel as far as Icollo i Bengo--Sugar Manufactory--Geology of this part of the Country--Women spinning Cotton--Its Price--Native Weavers-- Market-places--Cazengo; its Coffee Plantations--South American Trees--Ruins of Iron Foundry--Native Miners--The Banks of the Lucalla--Cottages with Stages--Tobacco-plants-- Town of Massangano--Sugar and Rice--Superior District for Cotton--Portuguese Merchants and foreign Enterprise--Ruins-- The Fort and its ancient Guns--Former Importance of Massangano--Fires--The Tribe Kisama--Peculiar Variety of Domestic Fowl--Coffee Plantations--Return to Golungo Alto-- Self-complacency of the Makololo--Fever--Jaundice--Insanity.

Chapter 21.

Visit a deserted Convent--Favorable Report of Jesuits and their Teaching--Gradations of native Society-- Punishment of Thieves--Palm-toddy; its baneful Effects-- Freemasons--Marriages and Funerals--Litigation--Mr. Canto’s Illness--Bad Behavior of his Slaves--An Entertainment--Ideas on Free Labor--Loss of American Cotton-seed--Abundance of Cotton in the country--Sickness of Sekeletu’s Horse--Eclipse of the Sun--Insects which distill Water--Experiments with them--Proceed to Ambaca--Sickly Season--Office of Commandant-- Punishment of official Delinquents--Present from Mr. Schut of Loanda--Visit Pungo Andongo--Its good Pasturage, Grain, Fruit, etc.--The Fort and columnar Rocks--The Queen of Jinga-- Salubrity of Pungo Andongo--Price of a Slave--A Merchant- prince--His Hospitality--Hear of the Loss of my Papers in "Forerunner"--Narrow Escape from an Alligator--Ancient Burial- places--Neglect of Agriculture in Angola--Manioc the staple Product--Its Cheapness--Sickness--Friendly Visit from a colored Priest--The Prince of Congo--No Priests in the Interior of Angola.

Chapter 22.

Leave Pungo Andongo--Extent of Portuguese Power-- Meet Traders and Carriers--Red Ants; their fierce Attack; Usefulness; Numbers--Descend the Heights of Tala Mungongo-- Fruit-trees in the Valley of Cassange--Edible Muscle--Birds-- Cassange Village--Quinine and Cathory--Sickness of Captain Neves’ Infant--A Diviner thrashed--Death of the Child-- Mourning--Loss of Life from the Ordeal--Wide-spread Superstitions--The Chieftainship--Charms--Receive Copies of the "Times"--Trading Pombeiros--Present for Matiamvo--Fever after westerly Winds--Capabilities of Angola for producing the raw Materials of English Manufacture--Trading Parties with Ivory--More Fever--A Hyaena’s Choice--Makololo Opinion of the Portuguese--Cypriano’s Debt--A Funeral--Dread of disembodied Spirits--Beautiful Morning Scenes--Crossing the Quango-- Ambakistas called "The Jews of Angola"--Fashions of the Bashinje--Approach the Village of Sansawe--His Idea of Dignity--The Pombeiros’ Present--Long Detention--A Blow on the Beard--Attacked in a Forest--Sudden Conversion of a fighting Chief to Peace Principles by means of a Revolver--No Blood shed in consequence--Rate of Traveling--Slave Women--Way of addressing Slaves--Their thievish Propensities--Feeders of the Congo or Zaire--Obliged to refuse Presents--Cross the Loajima-- Appearance of People; Hair Fashions.

Chapter 23.

Make a Detour southward--Peculiarities of the Inhabitants--Scarcity of Animals--Forests--Geological Structure of the Country--Abundance and Cheapness of Food near the Chihombo--A Slave lost--The Makololo Opinion of Slaveholders--Funeral Obsequies in Cabango--Send a Sketch of the Country to Mr. Gabriel--Native Information respecting the Kasai and Quango--The Trade with Luba--Drainage of Londa-- Report of Matiamvo’s Country and Government--Senhor Faria’s Present to a Chief--The Balonda Mode of spending Time-- Faithless Guide--Makololo lament the Ignorance of the Balonda-- Eagerness of the Villagers for Trade--Civility of a Female Chief--The Chief Bango and his People--Refuse to eat Beef-- Ambition of Africans to have a Village--Winters in the Interior--Spring at Kolobeng--White Ants: "Never could desire to eat any thing better"--Young Herbage and Animals--Valley of the Loembwe--The white Man a Hobgoblin--Specimen of Quarreling--Eager Desire for Calico--Want of Clothing at Kawawa’s--Funeral Observances--Agreeable Intercourse with Kawawa--His impudent Demand--Unpleasant Parting--Kawawa tries to prevent our crossing the River Kasai--Stratagem.

Chapter 24.

Level Plains--Vultures and other Birds--Diversity of Color in Flowers of the same Species--The Sundew--Twenty- seventh Attack of Fever--A River which flows in opposite Directions--Lake Dilolo the Watershed between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans--Position of Rocks--Sir Roderick Murchison’s Explanation--Characteristics of the Rainy Season in connection with the Floods of the Zambesi and the Nile--Probable Reason of Difference in Amount of Rain South and North of the Equator--Arab Reports of Region east of Londa--Probable Watershed of the Zambesi and the Nile--Lake Dilolo--Reach Katema’s Town: his renewed Hospitality; desire to appear like a White Man; ludicrous Departure--Jackdaws--Ford southern Branch of Lake Dilolo--Small Fish--Project for a Makololo Village near the Confluence of the Leeba and the Leeambye-- Hearty Welcome from Shinte--Kolimbota’s Wound--Plant-seeds and Fruit-trees brought from Angola--Masiko and Limboa’s Quarrel-- Nyamoana now a Widow--Purchase Canoes and descend the Leeba-- Herds of wild Animals on its Banks--Unsuccessful Buffalo- hunt--Frogs--Sinbad and the Tsetse--Dispatch a Message to Manenko--Arrival of her Husband Sambanza--The Ceremony called Kasendi--Unexpected Fee for performing a surgical Operation-- Social Condition of the Tribes--Desertion of Mboenga-- Stratagem of Mambowe Hunters--Water-turtles--Charged by a Buffalo--Reception from the People of Libonta--Explain the Causes of our long Delay--Pitsane’s Speech--Thanksgiving Services--Appearance of my "Braves"--Wonderful Kindness of the People.

Chapter 25.

Colony of Birds called Linkololo--The Village of Chitlane--Murder of Mpololo’s Daughter--Execution of the Murderer and his Wife--My Companions find that their Wives have married other Husbands--Sunday--A Party from Masiko-- Freedom of Speech--Canoe struck by a Hippopotamus--Gonye-- Appearance of Trees at the end of Winter--Murky Atmosphere-- Surprising Amount of organic Life--Hornets--The Packages forwarded by Mr. Moffat--Makololo Suspicions and Reply to the Matebele who brought them--Convey the Goods to an Island and build a Hut over them--Ascertain that Sir R. Murchison had recognized the true Form of African Continent--Arrival at Linyanti--A grand Picho--Shrewd Inquiry--Sekeletu in his Uniform--A Trading-party sent to Loanda with Ivory--Mr. Gabriel’s Kindness to them--Difficulties in Trading--Two Makololo Forays during our Absence--Report of the Country to the N.E.--Death of influential Men--The Makololo desire to be nearer the Market--Opinions upon a Change of Residence-- Climate of Barotse Valley--Diseases--Author’s Fevers not a fair Criterion in the Matter--The Interior an inviting Field for the Philanthropist--Consultations about a Path to the East Coast--Decide on descending North Bank of Zambesi--Wait for the Rainy Season--Native way of spending Time during the period of greatest Heat--Favorable Opening for Missionary Enterprise--Ben Habib wishes to marry--A Maiden’s Choice-- Sekeletu’s Hospitality--Sulphureted Hydrogen and Malaria-- Conversations with Makololo--Their moral Character and Conduct--Sekeletu wishes to purchase a Sugar-mill, etc.--The Donkeys--Influence among the Natives--"Food fit for a Chief"-- Parting Words of Mamire--Motibe’s Excuses.

Chapter 26.

Departure from Linyanti--A Thunder-storm--An Act of genuine Kindness--Fitted out a second time by the Makololo-- Sail down the Leeambye--Sekote’s Kotla and human Skulls; his Grave adorned with Elephants’ Tusks--Victoria Falls--Native Names--Columns of Vapor--Gigantic Crack--Wear of the Rocks-- Shrines of the Barimo--"The Pestle of the Gods"--Second Visit to the Falls--Island Garden--Store-house Island--Native Diviners--A European Diviner--Makololo Foray--Marauder to be fined--Mambari--Makololo wish to stop Mambari Slave-trading-- Part with Sekeletu--Night Traveling--River Lekone--Ancient fresh-water Lakes--Formation of Lake Ngami--Native Traditions-- Drainage of the Great Valley--Native Reports of the Country to the North--Maps--Moyara’s Village--Savage Customs of the Batoka--A Chain of Trading Stations--Remedy against Tsetse-- "The Well of Joy"--First Traces of Trade with Europeans-- Knocking out the front Teeth--Facetious Explanation-- Degradation of the Batoka--Description of the Traveling Party-- Cross the Unguesi--Geological Formation--Ruins of a large Town--Productions of the Soil similar to those in Angola-- Abundance of Fruit.

Chapter 27.

Low Hills--Black Soldier-Ants; their Cannibalism-- The Plasterer and its Chloroform--White Ants; their Usefulness--Mutokwane-smoking; its Effects--Border Territory-- Healthy Table-lands--Geological Formation--Cicadae--Trees-- Flowers--River Kalomo--Physical Conformation of Country-- Ridges, sanatoria--A wounded Buffalo assisted--Buffalo-bird-- Rhinoceros-bird--Leaders of Herds--The Honey-guide--The White Mountain--Mozuma River--Sebituane’s old Home--Hostile Village-- Prophetic Phrensy--Food of the Elephant--Ant-hills--Friendly Batoka--Clothing despised--Method of Salutation--Wild Fruits-- The Captive released--Longings for Peace--Pingola’s Conquests-- The Village of Monze--Aspect of the Country--Visit from the Chief Monze and his Wife--Central healthy Locations--Friendly Feelings of the People in reference to a white Resident-- Fertility of the Soil--Bashukulompo Mode of dressing their Hair--Gratitude of the Prisoner we released--Kindness and Remarks of Monze’s Sister--Dip of the Rocks--Vegetation-- Generosity of the Inhabitants--Their Anxiety for Medicine-- Hooping-cough--Birds and Rain.

Chapter 28.

Beautiful Valley--Buffalo--My young Men kill two Elephants--The Hunt--Mode of measuring Height of live Elephants--Wild Animals smaller here than in the South, though their Food is more abundant--The Elephant a dainty Feeder-- Semalembue--His Presents--Joy in prospect of living in Peace-- Trade--His People’s way of wearing their Hair--Their Mode of Salutation--Old Encampment--Sebituane’s former Residence--Ford of Kafue--Hippopotami--Hills and Villages--Geological Formation--Prodigious Quantities of large Game--Their Tameness--Rains--Less Sickness than in the Journey to Loanda-- Reason--Charge from an Elephant--Vast Amount of animal Life on the Zambesi--Water of River discolored--An Island with Buffaloes and Men on it--Native Devices for killing Game-- Tsetse now in Country--Agricultural Industry--An Albino murdered by his Mother--"Guilty of Tlolo"--Women who make their Mouths "like those of Ducks"--First Symptom of the Slave-trade on this side--Selole’s Hostility--An armed Party hoaxed--An Italian Marauder slain--Elephant’s Tenacity of Life--A Word to young Sportsmen--Mr. Oswell’s Adventure with an Elephant; narrow Escape--Mburuma’s Village--Suspicious Conduct of his People--Guides attempt to detain us--The Village and People of Ma Mburuma--Character our Guides give of us.

Chapter 29.

Confluence of Loangwa and Zambesi--Hostile Appearances--Ruins of a Church--Turmoil of Spirit--Cross the River--Friendly Parting--Ruins of stone Houses--The Situation of Zumbo for Commerce--Pleasant Gardens--Dr. Lacerda’s Visit to Cazembe--Pereira’s Statement--Unsuccessful Attempt to establish Trade with the People of Cazembe--One of my Men tossed by a Buffalo--Meet a Man with Jacket and Hat on--Hear of the Portuguese and native War--Holms and Terraces on the Banks of a River--Dancing for Corn--Beautiful Country-- Mpende’s Hostility--Incantations--A Fight anticipated--Courage and Remarks of my Men--Visit from two old Councilors of Mpende--Their Opinion of the English--Mpende concludes not to fight us--His subsequent Friendship--Aids us to cross the River--The Country--Sweet Potatoes--Bakwain Theory of Rain confirmed--Thunder without Clouds--Desertion of one of my Men-- Other Natives’ Ideas of the English--Dalama (gold)-- Inhabitants dislike Slave-buyers--Meet native Traders with American Calico--Game-laws--Elephant Medicine--Salt from the Sand--Fertility of Soil--Spotted Hyaena--Liberality and Politeness of the People--Presents--A stingy white Trader-- Natives’ Remarks about him--Effect on their Minds--Rain and Wind now from an opposite Direction--Scarcity of Fuel--Trees for Boat-building--Boroma--Freshets--Leave the River--Chicova, its Geological Features--Small Rapid near Tete--Loquacious Guide--Nyampungo, the Rain-charmer--An old Man--No Silver-- Gold-washing--No Cattle.

Chapter 30. An Elephant-hunt--Offering and Prayers to the Barimo for Success--Native Mode of Expression--Working of Game-laws--A Feast--Laughing Hyaenas--Numerous Insects-- Curious Notes of Birds of Song--Caterpillars--Butterflies-- Silica--The Fruit Makoronga and Elephants--Rhinoceros Adventure--Korwe Bird--Its Nest--A real Confinement--Honey and Beeswax--Superstitious Reverence for the Lion--Slow Traveling-- Grapes--The Ue--Monina’s Village--Native Names--Government of the Banyai--Electing a Chief--Youths instructed in "Bonyai"-- Suspected of Falsehood--War-dance--Insanity and Disappearance of Monahin--Fruitless Search--Monina’s Sympathy--The Sand- river Tangwe--The Ordeal Muavi: its Victims--An unreasonable Man--"Woman’s Rights"--Presents--Temperance--A winding Course to shun Villages--Banyai Complexion and Hair--Mushrooms--The Tubers, Mokuri--The Tree Shekabakadzi--Face of the Country-- Pot-holes--Pursued by a Party of Natives--Unpleasant Threat-- Aroused by a Company of Soldiers--A civilized Breakfast-- Arrival at Tete.

Chapter 31.

Kind Reception from the Commandant--His Generosity to my Men--The Village of Tete--The Population--Distilled Spirits--The Fort--Cause of the Decadence of Portuguese Power-- Former Trade--Slaves employed in Gold-washing--Slave-trade drained the Country of Laborers--The Rebel Nyaude’s Stockade-- He burns Tete--Kisaka’s Revolt and Ravages--Extensive Field of Sugar-cane--The Commandant’s good Reputation among the Natives--Providential Guidance--Seams of Coal--A hot Spring-- Picturesque Country--Water-carriage to the Coal-fields-- Workmen’s Wages--Exports--Price of Provisions--Visit Gold- washings--The Process of obtaining the precious Metal--Coal within a Gold-field--Present from Major Sicard--Natives raise Wheat, etc.--Liberality of the Commandant--Geographical Information from Senhor Candido--Earthquakes--Native Ideas of a Supreme Being--Also of the Immortality and Transmigration of Souls--Fondness for Display at Funerals--Trade Restrictions-- Former Jesuit Establishment--State of Religion and Education at Tete--Inundation of the Zambesi--Cotton cultivated--The fibrous Plants Conge and Buaze--Detained by Fever--The Kumbanzo Bark--Native Medicines--Iron, its Quality--Hear of Famine at Kilimane--Death of a Portuguese Lady--The Funeral-- Disinterested Kindness of the Portuguese.

Chapter 32.

Leave Tete and proceed down the River--Pass the Stockade of Bonga--Gorge of Lupata--"Spine of the World"-- Width of River--Islands--War Drum at Shiramba--Canoe Navigation--Reach Senna--Its ruinous State--Landeens levy Fines upon the Inhabitants--Cowardice of native Militia--State of the Revenue--No direct Trade with Portugal--Attempts to revive the Trade of Eastern Africa--Country round Senna-- Gorongozo, a Jesuit Station--Manica, the best Gold Region in Eastern Africa--Boat-building at Senna--Our Departure--Capture of a Rebel Stockade--Plants Alfacinya and Njefu at the Confluence of the Shire--Landeen Opinion of the Whites-- Mazaro, the point reached by Captain Parker--His Opinion respecting the Navigation of the River from this to the Ocean-- Lieutenant Hoskins’ Remarks on the same subject--Fever, its Effects--Kindly received into the House of Colonel Nunes at Kilimane--Forethought of Captain Nolloth and Dr. Walsh--Joy imbittered--Deep Obligations to the Earl of Clarendon, etc.-- On developing Resources of the Interior--Desirableness of Missionary Societies selecting healthy Stations--Arrangements on leaving my Men--Retrospect--Probable Influence of the Discoveries on Slavery--Supply of Cotton, Sugar, etc., by Free Labor--Commercial Stations--Development of the Resources of Africa a Work of Time--Site of Kilimane--Unhealthiness--Death of a shipwrecked Crew from Fever--The Captain saved by Quinine--Arrival of H. M. Brig "Frolic"--Anxiety of one of my Men to go to England--Rough Passage in the Boats to the Ship-- Sekwebu’s Alarm--Sail for Mauritius--Sekwebu on board; he becomes insane; drowns himself--Kindness of Major-General C. M. Hay--Escape Shipwreck--Reach Home. Appendix.--Latitudes and Longitudes of Positions. Appendix.--Book Review in Harper’s New Monthly Magazine, February, 1858.

Appendix.

--Notes to etext.