09 Building of the New Chapel at San Salvadore

Chapter 9 THE BUILDING OF THE NEW CHAPEL AT SAN SALVADOR, AND OTHER MATTERS THE voyagers reached Matadi safely on Sunday, August 2nd, and before going to San Salvador made the journey to Stanley Pool to attend meetings of the local committee. They found great refreshment in converse with their colleagues, and Mrs. Lewis wrote a long letter containing brief, kindly notes concerning every one of them. The return journey was made in the company of Mr. and Mrs. Lawson Forfeitt and included a brief but happy stay at Wathen. Mr. Forfeitt has given me an idyllic picture of a Sunday evening encampment upon a hillside, where, in ideal natural conditions, the travellers worshipped God in informal service and read together one of Dr. Maclaren’s sermons. Upon reference to Mrs. Lewis’s journal I find the date of this incident was August 30th, and the reading of the sermon is mentioned.

San Salvador was reached on Wednesday, September 9th, and Mr. and Mrs. Lewis forthwith settled down to their customary round of duties. In October they made a journey of visitation to the outposts, and one incident points the moral that we appreciate our privileges when we are on the point of losing them. The people of Mawunze, among whom Vita and his wife had been working, had proved apathetic to such a degree that it was determined to withdraw Vita, for other towns were clamouring for a teacher. As soon as this decision was known all Mawunze turned out in a fit of penitence and besought that Vita might be allowed to remain, promising all manner of amendment. In the end he left for a season with the understanding that if the newly awakened ardour were maintained he should return. In November the town of San Salvador was plunged into excitement by the sudden death of the King, following a flagrantly nefarious piece of conduct, the culmination of an evil course. To the great indignation of Mrs. Lewis and her colleagues the Resident consented to wink at the following of certain heathen and illegal customs in the observance of the obsequies. It was peculiarly painful to Mrs. Lewis that certain of her women friends and converts, wives of the deceased King, would have to sit all day long for months in a house with the corpse, never going out except at night. The only concession secured was that those who were professed Christians should be permitted to attend the services of the Mission.

Matter for discouragement and encouragement appears in the following extracts from a letter to Miss Hartland dated December 21, 1896: —

" The dreadful thing with these children is their propensity to steal. E. is just the same as D., and so are L. and M. at the other houses. We have tried everything with them — admonition, punishments of various kinds — but nothing has any effect. Can you suggest a remedy? We have even bribed, but to no purpose. Steal they will, and some of them ’ lie on the top.’ If any one has doubts about ’ original sin ’ let him come here!

" E. is a regular Topsy. She informed Mrs. Graham once, who was trying to talk to her seriously, that she didn’t want to go to heaven; she should prefer going to the other place. Isn’t it dreadful? What are you to do with a child like that? One of Mr. Hawker’s sweet little angels of seven!!! None of the black children would say that, though they do just as bad things. She is a mulatto. I do hope she may be converted, for she is very pretty, unfortunately for her, and what will become of her I can’t think. She can read nicely, but is not very clever otherwise.... You will be glad to know that the chief of Mbanza Mputu refused to apply for the throne here after the death of the King, because it would entail his becoming a Roman Catholic. I think it was a fine evidence of sincerity, for he was really the rightful heir.... Another thing you will be interested to hear. When we were at Mbanza Mputu a fortnight ago, Matata brought a man to Tom, saying he came from his town of Bangu (near the Arthington Falls, you know), and he wanted to come to learn more about God’s palaver. When Tom began to ask him questions, it turned out that he first heard the Gospel from John Hartland when he went to the falls with Matata, and that he was sent up to Manyanga with a message when John was ill there. He seems a very hopeful inquirer, and thus the seed sown so many years ago seems to be bearing fruit now. It is an encouragement, too, to us, as one never knows how even one visit to a town may be the means of awakening some hearers to a sense of their need."

Early in the year 1897, Mr. and Mrs. Lewis were again engaged in visiting the out-stations. In April San Salvador is visited by mumps, in epidemic form, and Mrs. Lewis contracts the disease in the course of her work among the people. About this time she is filled with sorrow by the death of Mr. Pople at Tumba; and, two months later, she and all friends of the Mission are again plunged into mourning by the death of Mr. White at Yakusu. In July she is away at Nkoko, concerned in the appointment of a new teacher — Manwana, one of their first boys. And in the following month mention is made of the undertaking which gives the title to this chapter.

" August 18th. (To Miss Ethel Percival.)— In San Salvador the sickness is dreadful, and hardly a day passes without a death. Uncle and Mr. Phillips are continually at funerals, and we don’t hear of all those who are buried by the Padres, or in country fashion as heathens. The Catholics are beginning to restore the old cathedral. I am sorry, as they have spoilt the beautiful ruins — the only pretty thing in the place. And they won’t do it properly. It will be a very small, insignificant place when it is finished. Of course it is to save trouble, for one thing, as some of the walls are already there. We hope to build our new chapel next dry season, all being well. Uncle is busy with plans now. That will be very much larger. By the way, you would love our cat! She has two dear little kittens. She had five — but — I draw a curtain! These two are sweet! Sandy we shall keep; Tiger goes to Mrs. P. But Mrs. Tabitha is nearly human in the way she goes on. We put her in the medicine-room on the piazza at night; but as soon as our door is open in the morning she carries her two babies to their day nursery in our bedroom. She much regrets that they are not allowed there at night, and protested loudly when we came home, for she had been allowed to keep house in our absence. She likes to be near us, though she does not like being nursed."

Early in October Mrs. Lewis reports the glad and ceremonial welcome accorded to a new colleague, Mr. Adams, and a journey of itineration in which she and Mr. Lewis were accompanied by him. A striking incident occurred in the course of this tour. As they were on the point of leaving one town certain women came and laid a bundle of fetishes before her, saying, " Here are the things which tempt us." She had not spoken of fetishes, but they had made practical application of her words.

"November 25th. — I think I told you that the Resident and priests were starting to rebuild the cathedral. They laid the foundation-stone, with their names on it, and built very thick stone walls. But a few days ago, lo, and behold, in the walls appeared two great cracks, and the workmen were sent off in a great hurry lest the whole thing should collapse upon the top of them. They had built above rotten graves and without sufficient foundation. So it is left now, and I very much doubt if it will ever get finished. The King and the people are rather wild because the priests have been forcing them to pay for it, taking a part of the King’s monthly allowance. They have just managed to spoil the beauty of the old ruins, though. By the way, one of you speaks about the future King being in our school. He was in our school; but as soon as he was appointed to be King he was taken away to stay with the Resident, treated like one of themselves, and sent to the Padres’ school. Now he has been sent to school at Loanda, and they say in a little while he will go to Portugal. He was perfectly spoilt before he left here. He will learn at Loanda every conceivable kind of wickedness. So I am afraid he is more likely to be a curse than a blessing when he returns. However, ’sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof.’ We must trust that in some way things will be overruled for good."

Some weeks after the foregoing paragraphs were written, the tottering walls of the new cathedral crashed down in a storm.

" December 26th. — The new chapel is not yet in process of building. We are only getting things ready. The collection is coming in well this year, and we hope to be quite prepared to commence the work at the beginning of the dry season, next May. Tom is architect, and I suppose will be builder also. It will be a big job."

"February 7th. (To Miss Ethel Percival.)— Things go on much the same here. It is really difficult to write about anything.

" We have been reading in odd times a book called ’ The Sowers,’ by the author of the ’ Tents of Kedar.’ It is good and rather exciting, but it takes us a long time to get through a book unless we are ill. Did I tell you that Uncle is busy building a dispensary among other things? It will be a nice little building when finished — one side for men and the other for women, which latter will be my domain, so I am watching it with great interest. At present I have to dispense from our own house, which takes up room, moreover the smell is not always pleasant. If you were to see some of the awful sores I don’t know what you would say! I think I told you the Resident’s wife has a baby. He is six months old now, and I nurse him occasionally. He is a dear. I am his medical attendant. The moment anything is the matter with him they send off for me. Poor little chap, it’s hard on a baby here, though the Portuguese don’t feel it as we do."

" March 27th. — What will you say when I tell you there is every likelihood of our leaving San Salvador and going to plant a new station? For a long time Mr. Bentley has had a scheme on foot for placing a new station in a district some eighty miles N.E. from here called Zombo. It is very populous and is a great trading centre. The people speak nearly the same language as here so books, & etc. would be all ready. At first there were obstacles in the way, but we are all agreed now as to the advisability of the plan. There is nothing definitely settled yet, but we hear that Mr. Baynes is in favour of it, and that if the Committee agree, we shall be going there with John Pinnock, as we and he have offered. It will be nice to have him for a colleague, as we shall all be from Camden, and the station will be a memorial to Tom Comber. I hope that Camden folks will feel a special interest in it from the first. Tom and I hope to go there in June to see the place and people, and to study the prospects generally. Sometimes some people from Zombo come here as carriers, otherwise there has been no evangelistic work done there. Mr. Bentley paid a visit there two or three years ago, and Mr. Phillips made a rush to one town when we were at home. The district is under Portuguese rule, and there is a Resident, and a Portuguese trader who used to be here. But it is a very large district with room for no end of work. The priests have not gone there yet. I wonder if they will follow. It will be beginning again quite at the beginning and we shall be farther away from civilization even than here; but by means of the railway we shall be able to get to Matadi in case of need in about the same time as from San Salvador, for Tumba is about as far from Zombo as we are, and then there is only a day’s journey in the train. When we go there I shall be able to tell you all about it; until then this is all I know. Tom is busy with the new chapel and it is getting on fast. He hopes to finish that work before we leave permanently. Of course we shall regret leaving here for many things, but we wish to go there very much and shall be very disappointed if anything prevents now. Well, these are our plans, but the future is in God’s hands, and He will order everything for the extension of His Kingdom in this dark land."

"April 11th. (A circular letter.) — I expect you will be looking for another letter from me by now, so I am writing to tell you about the commencement of our new chapel. For eleven years we have met in a house made entirely of native materials with a mud floor. It has been repaired a great many times, and now shows signs that it will not last much longer. We have been collecting money for the erection of a new permanent chapel for the last four years, each New Year’s collection being set apart for that purpose. At the beginning of this year the people made a great effort, and brought a larger amount than in any previous year, so that we felt justified in beginning to build. We hope by the end of this year to have enough to complete it, as it must be opened free of debt. Mr. Lewis undertook the task of planning and directing the work, and much time and labour it cost him, for you must remember that we have no really skilled workmen. There are one or two pretty fair bricklayers, but they can build nothing more elaborate than a plain square wall. Many of the tools, too, he has had to make himself, in the smithy. Mr. Lewis drew up a plan and decided to build a stone chapel capable of seating five hundred comfortably. The next thing was to get the stones. There was an old ruined wall, a part of the old monastery, which was getting dangerous to passers-by, so that came down and supplied a good many; then there is the old stone house which the first missionaries built now fast going to ruin, that is supplying a good many more.

All the large stones in and about the station were gathered together, and then the builders began to make the foundations. It occurred to us that it would be nice to have a stone-laying ceremony. Something that would draw the people together, make them feel that it was their work, and give them something to look back upon in years to come. To-day the great event has taken place and I am sure it will be a red-letter day in the lives of many. I have never seen them so thoroughly interested in anything.

"It was decided that Mrs. Phillips and I should each have the honour of laying a memorial stone. Mr. Lewis and his men chose two nice grey stones, upon which he cut our initials and the date of laying. He also made two pretty little new trowels, and got everything ready and fitted for this morning’s ceremony.

"Mr. Phillips, too, was busy. He composed a special hymn and tune, and taught the people to sing it. He also got programmes printed, sufficient to give to all who could read. Meanwhile the people had not been idle. Down at the bottom of the hill is a little stream where there are very fine grey stones. We asked every one to bring a stone, and every day some people were to be seen going down to fetch them, until yesterday there was hardly a house from which any one came to our Mission, but there lay one or more stones outside it, waiting for the morrow. Yesterday morning after service, when Mr. Lewis announced the meeting of to-day, to our surprise the people burst out in loud applause, round after round of clapping, and it was some time before we could get sufficient quiet to dismiss them. Just now it is the middle of the wet season, so we were a little anxious about the weather. We were greatly rejoiced this morning to find a beautiful bright sun shiny day with a pleasant breeze keeping it a little cool. Every one was astir early, and at half-past eight the bell rang and we five missionaries all went over to the site of the new chapel. Then from all directions came women and girls carrying stones on their heads. Now came one with a stone balanced on her head, a baby tied on her back, and a bunch of beads (Congo money) in her hand; then a little mite of a child with a stone clutched tight with both hands, then women and girls of all sorts and sizes down to the tiny tots in the infants’ class, but each with her stone, which was deposited in front of the missionaries. Soon from a little distance came the strains of a hymn, boys’ and men’s voices joining in singing ’ All hail the power of Jesus’ name ’ in the Congo language, and as we looked we saw a long procession of men and boys, each carrying a stone, coming from the opposite direction, Mr. Adams, who had arranged this little incident, bringing up the rear. As they reached the place each put down his stone, and then all stood round singing lustily till the hymn was finished. By this time fully five hundred people were gathered together. Quiet was called for, and the service began with a short prayer by Mr. Lewis, then a hymn which was heartily sung, Mr. Phillips presiding at the harmonium. Mr. Lewis read a few verses telling how Solomon prepared to build the temple, Mr. Phillips spoke about the history of the Mission from the time Messrs. Grenfell and Comber came here in 1878 — when they used to meet under the old tree in the palaver ground — up till now, and drew some lessons from it. Then came the ceremony: Mr. Lewis presented me with the trowel, helped me to lay the stone, did the same for Mrs. Phillips, and we declared them ’ Well and truly laid to the glory of God.’ Behind each stone was deposited a sealed bottle containing the current number of our magazine, which gives an account of the formation and growth of the Church here, with full details of the station, staff, native teachers, & etc, also a programme of to-day’s proceedings. After the stone-laying, freewill offerings were laid upon them; a great number of people pressed forward with beads and cloth, one woman with a live fowl, and others with papers giving part of their wages. Then Mr. Lewis offered prayer, asking God’s blessing on all, and His help to complete the work, so that in years to come, when all we shall have passed away, many may meet within its walls to hear the good news of a Father’s and a Saviour’s love. Then with all our hearts and voices we sang a translation of ’O’er the gloomy hills of darkness’ to old ’Calcutta.’ Mr. Adams pronounced the Benediction, and we all dispersed after the scene had been photographed.

" At the end of next month my husband and I hope to start on a long journey to a country where no missionary has been before. We expect to be away many weeks, so you will not hear from me for some little time probably. I shall hope to write and tell you about it on our return. Meanwhile will you pray for us that God may give us favour ill the sight of the people and lead us to a place which may become another centre of light in this dark land."

"May 19th. — There has been quite a smallpox scare in this town. There have been eight cases, all at the same time. A house has been built outside the town to accommodate them. There have been no fresh cases for about ten days now, so we hope it is over; but the people are so foolish. Although they are terribly afraid of it, yet they will not take any precautions, and hide cases if they possibly can. We have had to be very careful with the children in the station, not allowing them to go visiting in the town, and we have stopped inquirers and others coming from other towns, so as not to spread the mischief. Tom actually found the King hiding a boy with it in his house. Of course he sent him at once to the Resident.

"The new chapel is getting on slowly. Tom’s illness has not helped it. Next week, if well, we shall be very busy. Going away for so long and not knowing exactly whither we go is a big job, and we shall need to take a great many things with us."

" August 4th.— The girls’ school flourishes exceedingly, and now we are getting all the little children, the children of those we taught in years gone by. It is so nice to see the little tots coming in, and they really like coming, and of course will be able to learn so much more than those who have only two or three years to learn in and who in many cases are working hard all day. We have ninety-two girls on the books. If we go away I hope they will send another man and his wife out here. Of course at Zombo we shall not need another lady just yet, as the work will be very gradual there. At first we shall have to gain the confidence of the people and that will take some time." In June Mr. and Mrs. Lewis, with some of their boys, made the eventful journey to Zombo, which will be fully described in a later chapter. After notable adventures, they arrived back safely at San Salvador on July 6th, and took up their customary work again. For many months, however, the chapel building was a matter of commanding interest, and for Mr. Lewis a matter of heavy labour and multiplied anxieties. His wife’s letters teem with lively and sympathetic references to his trials. His workmen, imperfectly skilled, need constant supervision. It is passing difficult to induce them to take an interest in doing things well. Their invincible propensity to " jabber " while at work leads them to make mistakes which necessitate the pulling down again of that which they have built up, and all this with the rainy season imminent, making it a matter of moment that the stone-laying should be swiftly done. When it comes to constructing the arches for doors and windows, she fears that Mr. Lewis will have much trouble in teaching his craftsmen, for no one in San Salvador has made an arch before. Yet in spite of all drawbacks, the work goes on.

Meanwhile they await long and anxiously the final consent of the Committee to the Zombo Scheme.

Early in April, 1899, Mrs. Lewis reports with joy that the desired consent has been received, and gives account of the progress of the building.

" The chapel will look fine when it is finished. The roof is nearly on. It is a year to-day, counting by Easter and not by the date, since the stones were laid. By the way, we missionaries, the Grahams, the Phillipses, and ourselves are paying for the pulpit and the baptistery, and building them in memory of those who have gone. We intend to affix a brass plate recording that they are erected in memory of Tom and Minnie Comber, John S. Hartland, A. Cowe, S. Silvey, and Wilkinson. We thought it would be good for the natives not to forget those who have worked and died for them."

Before the month of April closed an event occurred which plunged the Mission into deepest sorrow. Here follows the account written by Mrs. Lewis and addressed to Mr. Baynes.

"All last week Mrs. Phillips was very unwell, and caused us some anxiety, and on Sunday, the 23rd inst., fever appeared, which continued in spite of all efforts to subdue it. Mrs. Phillips was much worse on Tuesday, and we began to fear for her: from that time until Wednesday afternoon we did everything we could think of, but, although we were able to allay the distressing symptoms, the inward fever remained, and at 1.45 p.m., on April 26th, she passed peacefully away. Mrs. Phillips was conscious to within an hour of her death, a fact for which she was very thankful, and so are we. She was able to speak to us words of faith and hope, and to send loving messages to all the dear ones at home, and to the women and children here. At first she was grieved at the thought of not seeing her little ones again, and at the thought of their childish sorrow when they should learn that mother would come home no more. But even that passed, and she was able to leave them in the care of the Heavenly Father. She had taken such an interest in the building of the new chapel, and the day before she died asked if it was possible for her to go to look at it. On Wednesday, when Mr. Lewis came into the room, she said: ’ Ah! I shall never see the bonny chapel after all! ’ She spoke, too, of the work to which we hope to go in Zombo, and said she thought she should see us there, and hoped we should have great blessing, and was so grateful for every little thing done for her, and was brave and unselfish to the last.

" When it became known how ill Mrs. Phillips was the greatest concern was evinced by the people. None of the women went to their farms, but sat and watched outside the house. When all was over, and she lay as in a peaceful sleep, with white English roses scattered around, the women came in to take a last look at their friend; they burst out into the terrible death wail, but when we asked them to desist they stopped, and nothing could have shown the sorrow and sympathy so much as the absolute quiet that reigned through all that sad day and the day following. The people all — men, women, and children — did their very utmost to show their love and respect. They cleared the path to the chapel and to the cemetery, and the next morning, when six of the station boys carried the coffin into the chapel, it was through two long rows of mourners that we passed. Mr. Lewis conducted a short service and gave a brief address, and all that day a crowd of women sat round the coffin until four in the afternoon, when the funeral took place in the cemetery on the outskirts of the town. Every one was most kind. The Resident, the Padres, and the representatives of the trading houses all came, the Padres even offering their band. Such a funeral has never been seen in Congo before, and all the way to the grave and back again the most reverent silence. Before starting we sang a translation of the hymn, ’Guide me, O Thou great Jehovah,’ and at the grave, ’Abide with me,’ and then we left our sister asleep in Jesus until the day break and the shadows flee away. "Mrs. Phillips was one of those quiet, unobtrusive workers whose work is not much known or appreciated, but we who have been her fellow-workers for more than ten years know how real was her love for the work, and how often in great weariness and pain she did her utmost to bring the women and children to the feet of Jesus. For the last two years she had very few interruptions from illness, and has been able to work continuously with me in the school and other parts of the work, especially in the Sunday School, taking the oversight of the girls’ department, and holding a female teachers’ preparation class. Our hearts are sad for her husband and the dear little motherless children as well as the parents and other friends in the homeland. May the loving Heavenly Father be very near to sustain them when this news reaches them.

" We mourn, too, for ourselves and the work here. We have lost a kind and unselfish colleague and the women’s work a true friend and helper. Who is to take her place? If you could have seen the sympathy and sorrow shown yesterday; if you could have watched the devotion of Mrs. Phillips’s eldest girl during her illness and all through this sad time; if you could have heard the prayers offered by the women this evening, when we met in our weekly prayer-meeting — prayers for the friends at home, for us who are left, and for themselves in their own sad loss — you would have felt as I did that our work has not been in vain, and that the Congo women are priceless jewels to be won for the Saviour’s crown. You know that I am hoping to go further afield, and work among the women of Zombo. I would earnestly beg the Committee to send some one to help Mrs. Graham in this work. We are so short-handed here; we want more workers, both men and women, to do for these people what they cannot do for themselves. They are willing to work, but they need teaching and guiding, and we must have more workers among the women. These Congo women, with a large amount of personal freedom and strong will, must become a power for good if only they are led aright. The fields are white unto harvest, the time is short, and the workers swiftly pass away. May the Lord thrust forth more labourers into His harvest." On June 7th Mr. and Mrs. Lewis, accompanied by Mr. John Pinnock, started again for Kibokolo, the journey occupying nearly a fortnight. They succeeded in securing a plot of ground, and before they left, six days later, the Comber Memorial station was commenced. Mr. Pinnock remained to proceed with the necessary building, while Mr. and Mrs. Lewis returned to San Salvador for the short closing period of their work in that town. They arrived back on July 5th; the chapel building work was duly completed, and on Saturday, September 16th, and following days, the opening ceremonies took place. Mrs. Lewis’s report of the celebrations will constitute the next chapter.