Chapter 15: Triumphs and Trials

ONE day, leaving my wife with the hospitable, kindhearted believers of the Gospel village of Gamelleira, Ricardo and I mounted our horses, and, driving a pack mule between us, set out for the city of Born Fim, about forty-eight miles away.
The weather was wet and stormy, and we traveled with much difficulty and discomfort — for the so-called rainproof coats and cloaks prove very fallible when subjected to a real tropical storm. Before dark that day we reached the farm of Antonio Leao, an elderly, patriarchal-looking man, who received us very kindly, and liberally provided for our immediate needs and those of our animals, That night I slept in state on the dinner table, which, in my waking moments — though happily these were few — I found to be remarkably hard; while poor Senhor Ricardo professed to pass a good night in the rough Buriti hammock, rolled up in our damp ponchos and saddle-cloths. The farmer tent us an additional blanket apiece, one being considered sufficient to pass the night with. We were up with the break of day, and, finding our animals without difficulty, we saddled up and were off before o’clock. Our host bade us a kindly farewell, and charged nothing for our entertainment or for the rein for our animals.
It was a lovely day, and thin, gauzy clouds tempered the heat of the sun, making our travel delightfully cool and agreeable; while the pleasure of our ride was greatly increased by the exceptionally beautiful character of the country we traversed.
The wet season certainly has its perils and discomforts for the horseback traveler; but without doubt there are great compensations in the facts that carrapatos are very few, the pastures are in good condition, and the beauty of forest and landscape is immensely enhanced. Just at that time of the year God’s world is seen at its best, and everything is looking fresh and green, like some beautiful, well-kept garden at home, with no sign of decay.
The heavy rains of the preceding day rendered the path susceptible to the slightest impression of beast or bird, and this fact became a source of great interest to us. The marks left in the sandy path we’re clear and sharp, having been made only a few hours, or perhaps minutes, before we passed. Tracks of the erne (Brazilian ostrich) are very frequent and striking, and now and again the pretty impression of deer’s feet, the curious mark of the tatu-canastra (giant armadillo), and the huge impress left by a Brazilian tapir were seen. Once we noticed the paw marks of a wild cat, and several times the unmistakable footprints of the Brazilian wolf. One of these was particularly large and must have belonged to a huge animal. I have seen wolves in Brazil nearly as large as a Shetland pony, and Ricardo told me that he had shot such an one in Gamelleira.
At last, after covering about thirty miles that day, Born Fim was seen in the distance, and soon we were riding through its streets by the light of the setting sun. On reaching the house of Senhor Nestor we were received by him and his wife with great gladness. He is the local chemist and physician. Years ago I had sold him a Bible, to which he largely owed his conversion; and the visit of another worker to his city a little later completed the work God had begun in his heart. He came out wholeheartedly for the Lord Jesus Christ, and since that moment has never looked back. His life is one constant witness for Jesus, and he is ever ready to speak to one and all about this glorious Gospel. As he is the only doctor in the country round, every one sick and suffering has to seek his help, and also invariably obtains Gospel advice and exhortation. The walls of his house are covered with Bible texts, and in his shop and dispensary I counted no less than thirty-two large Gospel texts, hymn sheets, sermons, etc., which impress themselves on the attention of everybody who enters.
The day after our arrival we visited many houses in the town, inviting the people to our first night’s meeting in Nestor’s house. We were well received by the people, and before seven o’clock the place was packed, with a crowd in the passage, and outside a still larger crowd who listened through the open windows. The silence of the audience, both outside and in, was unbroken by a single word, and there was hardly any movement during the hour and a half that the meeting lasted. I have never seen such attention at home at a Gospel meeting. After the address, which appeared to make a deep impression on the people, Senhor Nestor rose and gave a good public testimony of faith in Jesus.
We held meetings every night during the week, and there was evidence of God’s presence throughout; and though the priest tried to do us all the harm he could, begging the people from his pulpit “for the love of God not to attend the meetings,” the interest Continued; and there was not one instance of unfriendly behavior.
The concluding meeting was on Sunday night, when the large room and another side room and passage packed, besides the usual crowd outside. Many returned home disappointed, unable to obtain admission. At the conclusion of this meeting a young man told me he was convinced and had decided for Christ. Many others appeared to be fully persuaded, and we trust God will bring them through in time.
On our return journey, Ricardo having a special capacity for losing his way, we strayed about ten miles out of the path, and after riding thirty miles, while yet twelve miles from our destination for the night, one of our animals was taken ill, and further travel became impossible. We had neither tent nor camp beds with us, and had only just time to rig up a rough hut with poles and Buriti palm leaves before the night set in. We tucked our saddles, etc., in one end of the improvised shelter, and, weary and dinnerless, crawled under it ourselves, just in time to escape a heavy downpour of rain, which soon found the weak spots in our flimsy roof. We passed a reasonably good night, however, in spite of these drawbacks and the insects; and by five o’clock next morning we had set out again, hoping to reach Gamelleira before dark. Vain hope! Ricardo soon lost the road, found it again after twelve miles, and then, when within four miles of home, darkness overtaking us, he lost it again! He then got so inextricably mixed up that I resolved to stop at the first habitation.
The first house we reached was an abandoned hut, and we rode on another mile in the darkness before we made out another place, evidently inhabited., But the only response to our calls was the grunting of a pig inside. By this time it was quite dark, and we were feeling desperate, for we had ridden about forty miles that day, when, to our joy, Ricardo sighted another house a little beyond on the other side of a small river. With much difficulty we crossed the stream and rode up to the house, only to be again disappointed; it was unoccupied. Finding the big barn attached all open at one side, and empty, we resolved to pass the night there.
While Ricardo was loosening the pack-mule’s girths, I peered into the barn, which had only a few corn leaves on the floor, and became aware of a curious, rustling sound, somewhat resembling dripping water. I called Ricardo’s attention to it. “You are mistaken,” he cried; “it’s something else you heard,” and went on unloading. But before we carried our things in I listened again, and again I heard that curious sound among the dry corn leaves. This time Ricardo heard it and said he thought it was an army of ants, and slashed before him into the darkness with his long whip. “A cobra!” he cried, as a loud hiss greeted our ears. Striking a light we saw a large rattlesnake, curled up and almost within striking distance of us — just where we should have placed our things!
We left the rattlesnake and his friends in undisturbed possession and continued our weary way, now completely lost, pulling our exhausted animals along after us, in the hope of finding some place of refuge, for the thunder and lightning promised a wet night. Finally I resolved to sleep out in the open again. With some difficulty we made a tent out of our two ponchos and managed to light a good fire. Tired and hungry, we passed a poor night on the ground, doubled up in a very cramped position, with only one blanket between us; but in answer to prayer the roved us from another impending thunderstorm. In the morning our animals were soon found, as they were haltered over night; and, locating our correctly, within two hours we were again among the Gamelleira friends.